Method of and machine for forming heel seats of shoes



Nov. 29, 1932.

ABATE? METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMING HEEL SEATS OF SHOES Filed Deo. 29.I

Wvg/Wm?. Grimm @Lm Nov. 29, 1932. A. BATES 1,839,234

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMING HEEL SEATS OF SHOES Filed Dec. 29. 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 2z 22 f F1312.

Patented Nov. 29, 1932 UNET SATES Peteur rice v.t'lB/JIEU'R BATES, OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEV JERSEY, A CORPORATEON OF NEW JERSEY METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMING HEEL SEATS OF SHOES Application filed December 29, 183i. Serial No. 583,625, and. in Greatritain January 10,1931.

This invention relates to improvements in shoemaking and contemplates more particularly a novel method of improving the heelseat lasting of welted shoes. lt includes also within its scope novel machinery by which such method may be advantageously carried out.

lt has been customary heretofore in the making ot welted shoes to complete the various lasting operations before the inseam sewing takes place. I have observed that certain benefits result from deferring the lasting` of the heel-seat portion of the shoe until after the inseam has been sewn and in one aspect the present invention comprises a method of making welted shoes in which such a departure from the customary practice is utilized in an advantageous manner.

A valuable result ot the novel sequence of steps proposed in accordance with the method of my invention is that it becomes practicable,

andV indeed advantageous, to perform on the shoe, as related functions ot a single machine, not only the heel-seat lasting but also the welt buttino and tackino' or other su plementary or related operations designed properly to place the inseam and secure a smooth and continuous lasting operation throughout the shank of the shoe and particularly at the junction thereof with the heel-seat portion.

In practicing the method of my invention, the shoe upper, complete with the lining and toc stilener. is assembled and shaped to the last upon which a sole or insole has already been positioned. The forepart of the upper may then be lasted and the lasting operation continued into the shank of the shoe and the margin of the upper about the heel-seat may be temporarily secured sutliciently to prevent from being` disturbed in the subsequent handlingot' the shoe. A single tack driven into the upper material at the rear end of the heel-seat is usually suiiicient for thispurpose, the margin ot the upper about the sides o t the lieelseat standing up to provide material for the over-wiping and heel-seat lasting operations. Then these steps have been carried out. the upper will have been conformed to its last around its toe portion and will be 'secured in such conformedposition and will also be secured to the insole at its heel end in readiness for the heel-seat lasting operation to take place.

Having conditioned the shoe as above explained, the welt sewing operation 4is next carried out. Any suitable commercial welt sewing machine may be employed for this purpose although I prefer to employ that shown in my application Serial No. 325,839. Such a machine operates to last the margin i of the upper step by step over the insole along both sides of the last approximately from the tip line to a point close to the heel breast line and sews the welt into the shoe. When the shoe has been thus operated upon it will, except for the heel end part beyond theends of the inseam, have been completely con-4 formed to its last. The margin of the upper along the shank oil the shoe and near the heel breast line is in condition to be easily and accurately conformed to this portion of the last since the conforming movement of the upper in this region is unrestrained by the presence of any heel-seat lastingtacks near the heel breast line. Y

The shoe is next subjected to a series of related and cooperating steps. First, the welted margin of the upper in the shank near the heel breast line is forced inwardly over the insole; second, while the ends of the inseam are so held the heel-seat lasting operation is effected; third, at the conclusion of the heel-seat lasting operation the heel-seat is tacked; fourth, substantially simultaneously with the heel-seat tacking operation the margin of the upper inside the Jorceddn portion of the inseam is tacked. Meanwhile, during the heel-seat lasting operation and while the ends of the inseam are held in their forced-in position, both ends of the welt are butted. It will be apparent that in carrying out the sequence of operations above described the upper about the entire heel-seat and into the shank on both sides of the shoe may be conformed to the last with unusual accuracy and smoothness and without any break in the continuous curved line of the upper between the heel-seat and the torepart of the shoe. It is desirable that the side lasting operation effected in accordance with the novel method of my invention, on the portions of the upper immediately in front of the heel breast line, should take place before the ac tual securing of the heel-seat portion of the upper in lasted position, since such side lasting may not only be eected without imposing local strains upon the upper but may actually assist in the overwiping operation about the heel-seat. Further, if the. side lasting operation be effected previously to the conclusion of the heel-seat lasting operation, the feather line of the'upper in the shank is likely to be more smooth and continuous than it could be if the heel-seat lasting operation were completely effected before the side vpor-y tions are lasted over the insole, since in the latter case a forward portion of the flange of the counter may bridge across between the ends ofthe inseam and the heel-seat lasting tacks. Such a condition oifers considerable resist-ance to overwiping and flattening down the margin of the upper upon the'insole in those portionsr of -the shoe immediately in front of the heel breast line.

While the various steps of the novel method of shoemaking above discussed may be carried out in any desired manner, I have provided a novel machine which may be employed advantageously for carrying out the heel-seat lasting and tacking, the side wiping and tacking and the Welt butting operations. In another aspect, accordingly, my invention comprises a machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers, tacking devices associated therewith and side wipers for overwiping the margin of the upper along the shank and forcing inwardly the rear ends of the welt, the side wipers being arranged to operate in advance of the heel-seat wipers. Preferably and as herein shown, the side wipers are associated with the heel-seat wipers and operated by the movement of the latter, and while this arrangement is compact and insures an accurate timing of the two operations it would not be without the scope of the invention to operate the two sets of wipers by separatey actuating mechanism but in the same sequence. f

From the standpoint of economy of time and accuracy of operation it is desirable to effect the welt butting operation while the ends of the welt are held inwardly in the manner above explained. To this end another important feature of my invention consists in the combination, with heel-seat wipers, of related side lasting wipers and cutting means operated in timed relation thereto for butting the ends of thewelt while they are positioned and held securely bythe side wipers. 1

These and other features of the invention will bebest understood and appreciated from the followingV description of a preferred embodiment thereof, selected for purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of the operative pol'- tion of the machine with certain parts removed, showing a shoe in operative position;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view in front elevation, showing the shoe in section on a plane in advance of the heel breast line; and

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary View in perspective illustrating the welt sewing step.

The machine illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is of the same general construction as that disclosed in U.l S. Letters Patent No. 1,852,015 granted upon an application of J. C. Jorgensen, Serial No. 355,566, and only such portions of the machine as it is necessary to refer to for an understanding of the present invention will be described herein in detail. Such machines are designed especially for the shaping of shoe upper materials 10 (herein referred to inclusively as the upper) about the heel end of a last 12, and include means for wiping the margin of the upper inwardly over a sole or insole 14 on the last bottom and means for driving a plurality of tacks to fasten the margin of the upper in such overwiped position.

Like the machine described in the patent above identified, the illustrated machine is equipped with a pivotally mounted shoe support or jack 16 upon which the shoe and last are supported bottom up and by swinging movement of which the shoe is positioned with its heel end portion within a heel-embracing band 18. The band 18 is supported in the machine and is closed about the heel end of tie shoe to clasp it in the power operation of the machine by actuating mechanism forming no part of the present invention. In the course of the operation of the machine, the shoe is engaged upon its heel-seat surface by a hold-down member or presser foot 20 also automatically controlled and cooperating with the jack as a locating stop to determine the vertical height of the shoe relatively to the wiping and fastening mechanism hereinafter d-escribed. The wipers occupy a fixed vert-ical position in the machine and the power mechanism of the machine is if effective to force the shoe upwardly against the wipers in the course of the overwiping operation. y

The head of the machine is supported at a convenient height by a column 22 and inf.

cludes a thick top plate 3 and a bottom plate 5 between which are formed horizontal guideways for wipers 7 suitably shaped to conform the upper to the heel end of the last and overwipe the margin thereof in forming the heelseat. The outer edges of the wipers 7 are arcuate in contour and are provided with upstanding curved ribs 9 which are arranged to slide within correspondingly shaped grooves formed 1n the under side of the wiper caroperating rods 19'which in turn are connected at their rearward ends to a cam-actuated slide not shown) by movement of which the wipers are advanced over the heel end of the shoe at the proper time in the cycle of the n machine. The slots 13fin the wiperl carriers are so shaped that the wipers are given a bodily movement toward each other as they are advanced over the heel end of the shoe. The inner corners of the wipers 7 move during th-e forward movement of the wipers along opposite sides ofV a V-shaped guide block 21 which is located between the wipers with its side walls converging forwardly toward the shoe.

Each wiper 7 is provided with a series of apertures 23 located in a groove running along the inner edge of the wiper and through these apertures tacks are adapted to be .driven at the conclusion of the lasting operation to secure the overwiped upper to its insole 14. To thisend each of the wipers 7 has associated therewith a plurality of tack-inserting devices 25 (only one of which is shown at each side of the machine in Fig. 2). One tack-inserting device is associated with each of the apertures 23 and its lower end is arranged to rest onI the wiper in registration with the corresponding aperture. In the accompanying drawings the wiper is shown as provided with eight aper tures and eight tack-inserting devices are, ac cordingly, associated with each wiper and are arranged to be carried 'by a bracket 27 secured to the wiper so that each wiper and its equipment of tack-inserting devices move as a unit.

rlhe two brackets 27 whichare secured to the wipers 7 project upwardly and outwardly from the wipers and each is-provided with a handle 29 extending within convenient reach of the operator. By moving this handle in an are concentric with the are of the curved rib 9 ofthe wiper, the wiper with its associated tack-inserting devices may be angularly adjusted relatively to its carrier 11. In this way the machine may be conveniently adjusted for operating upon shoes of different sizes. ln order to hold each wiper securely in any position Vof adjust ment relatively to its carrier, the outer edge of each of the carriers 11 is formed with a segmental rack 31 which is concentric with the arc of curvature of the rib 9 and each handle 29 is provided with a` pivotallymounted, spring-actuated detent 33 which normally engages one of the teeth of the rack 31 on the carrier to hold the wiper in fixed position but which may be easily released by the operator when he grasps the handle 29 to adjust the position of the wiper.

The forward end of each wiper 7 is provided with an ear 35 extending horizontally and outwardly therefrom and in this ear is formed a dovetailed groove 37 in which a dovetailed block 39 is arranged to slide. The ear 35 is provided with an upstanding lug 43 near its outer end. A rod 41 is mounted in the lug 43 and extends horizontally ina direction parallel to the dovetailedgro'ove in the ear 35, being threaded at its inner end into a boss 45 projecting upwardly from the block 39.V A relatively heavy compression spring 47 bearing against the inner side of the lug 43 and against a collar 49threaded upon the rod serves to urge the block 39 inwardly along its guideway to an extent limited by contact between the lug 43 and a knurled nut 51 on the outer end of the rod 41. The block 39 at each side of the machine is provided with an extension 53 to which is pivoted, by means of a vertical pivot 55, a side lasting member which comprises a relatively thin metal Vplate 57 disposed in a horizontal plane and having a substantially straight work-engaging edge. The pivot 55 for each of the side lasting plates 57 is mounted near the rear outer corner of the plate and an upstanding flange 59 is provided on the outer edge of each plate and in front of its pivotal axis in position to be engaged by' a horizontal spring-pressed plunger 61 (shown best Vin Fig. 1). rl`he plunger 61 is housed within the ear 35 on the wiper and tends always to urge the forward end of the plate 57 inwardly to an extent limited by contact between the edge face of the place and the extension 53 in which it is mounted.A Theplates 57 are so positioned relatively to the wipers 7 that 1the lower faces of both are substantially in the same horizontal plane and the plates 57 are of a length sufficient to extend from the vicinity of the heel breast line of a shoe of average size to a point half way along the shank thereof.

Welt butting knives 63 ar-e -detachably secured to the outer ends of arms 65, each of which is mounted to swing upon a vertical pivot projecting upwardly from one of the bosses 45. At its rear or inner end each arm 65 is connected to an outwardlyextending` link 67 which in turn is provided at its outer end with an upstandi-ng pin 69 arranged to enter a short slot 71 in the stationary plate 3 of the machine head. The slot 71 is disposed substantially parallel to the path which the side lasting plate 57 will follow as it moves forwardly and inwardly for the wiping operation. The wiper carriers 11 are cut away or recessed at 211, see Fig. 1, on their upper and lower faces where it is necessary to i (shown only in Fig. 2) vwhich is adjustably supported on a bearing 75 secured to one of the brackets 27 previously referred to as carrying the tack-inserting mechanisms for the wipers. Each casting 73 is provided at its inner side with spaced bearings '.77 and 79 which are aligned and directed upwardly and outwardly. l In the lower bearing 79 1s movably mounted atack nozzle 81 and from. the tack nozzle extends a driver rod 83 which passes upwardly through the upper bearing 77 and is connected at its upper end by a ball jointed rod 85 to suitable driver operating mechanism. Each tack nozzle 81 is arranged to occupy an elevated position, as shown in Fig. 2, when the lside lasting wiper plates 57 occupy their retracted position, and to be lowered gradually toward the shoe bottom as the inward movement of these wipers progresses in order to allow the nozzle to move inwardly with the wipers without catching upon the welt 86 of the shoe in the machine. is supported upon the plates 57 and that the Y movement of the nozzle 81 is timed so that it descends upon the work only aft-er it has passed inwardly over the welt.

Each nozzle 81 is formed at its lower end in a short tube 87 of a diameter to fit withiny the lower bearing 79 of the casting 75. Above its lower end it is reduced in diameter and passesv upwardly through a collar 91 threaded into the top of the bearing 79 and at its upper end the tube is provided with a collar 93, from either side of which project pins 95. A compression spring 105 encircles the reduced portion of the tube 87 within the bearing 79, bearing at its upper end against the fixed collar 91 and tending at all times to urge the nozzle 81 downwardly. VAn operating lever 97 is pivotally mounted upon a horizontal pivot 99 projecting from the caste ing 7 3 and this engages beneath the pins 95. The outer end of the lever 97 is provided with an adjustable stud 100 which is adapted to engage a broad and upwardly-sloping cam` face 101 formed in a block 103 secured to the stationary plate 3 of the machinehead. The cam face 101 extends inwardly to an extent which insures that the stud 100 will remain in contact therewith during the inward movement of the wip-ers 7 and the side lasting plates 57. It will be seen that as the bracket 27 moves inwardly with the wipers and plates 57 the lever 97will be-allowed to swing in a counter clockwise direction and the nozzleY It will be understood th at the welt.

81 will be lowered under thejactuation of the spring 105.

Y Provision is made for feeding tacks into each of the nozzles 81 through a flexible tube 107 as the tack nozzle reaches its outer and raised position, as shown in Fig. 2. Each nozzle is provided with a duct leading from the driver passage to convey tacks from the tube 107 into driving position.

To enable the welt butting knives to leffect the trimming operation in such a manner as to leave a bevel on'each end ofthe welt in the usual manner,'each plate 57 is provided with a bevelled portion, indicated at 113 in Fig. 1, which commences` about half way along the plate and rises gradually as it proceeds rearwardly for a short distance until it reaches a Hat upper face 115 which forms with thewelt butting knife a shearing couple by which av welt end is cut off. As the welt is supported on the upper surface of each plate it will ride up the bevels 113 onto the upper faces of the plates and the welt butting knives 63 will swing across on a level with the upper flat faces 115 of the plates and will cut oft' the ends of the welt. The meeting line between the bevelled portion 113 and the flat upper face 115 of each'plate is arranged to lie, when the welt butting operation occurs. more or less at right angles to the contour ofthe sole edge so that the ends of the welt will be trimmed off square to the shoe.

The position at which the tacks are driven into the work by the tack-inserting devices which are associated with the side lasting plates 57 may be varied by adjusting the tackinserting devices relatively to the plates inwardly and outwardly of the machine and forwardly and rearwardly thereof. To this end each of the castings 73 has an outwardlyextending stud 117 secured to it and this stud supports an externally-threaded tube 119 which is rotatable on the stud but not movable along it. Each tube is threaded into one of the bearings 75 aforesaid which are mounted on the brackets 27 secured to the wipers. By rotation of a knurled head 123 on the outer end of the threaded tube 119 the casting 7 3, and therefore the tack nozzle and driver carrier, may be adjusted inwardly and outwardly of the machine to cause a tack to be driven near to or further from the upper edge of the plate. Each casting 7.3 also has an outwardly-extending arm 125 thereon which is provided with a notch on its upper side and a stem 127 passes forwardly and rearwardly through the notch and is provided with heads 129 (of which one is shown)` between which the arm 125 is engaged. The stem 127' extends horizontally rearwardly from the arm 125 and its rear end is threaded into a pin 131 which extends from left toright ofthe machine and is freely supported in bearings in ears 133 upstanding from the bearing 7 5.y Rotation of the head 129 on the forward end of the stem 127 will cause the outwardly-extending arm 125` to approach towards or recede'from the bearing 75 and will, therefore, swing the casting 73 about the axis of the stud 117, thus varying the position lengthwise of the shoe of the tack nozzle 81 and allowing tacks to be driven by the tack-inserting device carried by the casting 73 in predetermined position relatively to the heel breast line. The ears 133 are spaced so far apart that the pin 131 and stem 127 may move between Vthem to right or to left ofthe machine a distance yequal to the extent of the maximum desired adjustment of the threaded tube 119 in the bearing 7 5.

One suitable form of machine has now been described for carrying out certain steps of the novel method of my invention. The shoe will come to this machine with the upper, forward of the heel breast line, already conformed to its last and having had the welt sewn to the margin of the upper and insole, but with the heel-seat still unlasted. Fig. 3 shows the shoe in the inseaming process, this being carried out in a sewing machine of the type disclosed, provided with a curved needle 24- and a channell guide 26. The margin of the upper is positioned by a single tack at the rear end of the heel-'seat but otherwise not overwiped nor tacked Vin the rear of the heel carrying the heel end of the shoe into the heel-embracing band 18, and is then elevated until the insole 14 is arrested by coming into contact with the hold-down member 20, this operatingto maintain the heel end of the shoe at the correct height with respect to the wipers 7. As the shoe is moved rearwardly with the jack into the machine, the inner edges of the forward ends of the side lasting plates 57 come into engagement with the outside of the shoe upper in the welt creaseand the welt 86 is caused to ride over the plates. The rear ends 'of the welt, accordingly, take up a position lying upon the rear ends of the plates 57 which, therefore, cooperate with the hold-down member in positioning all portions of the heel end of the shoe in correct position for the lasting operation.

Having thus preliminarily positioned the shoe in the machine,l its power-operated' mechanism is thrown into action to cause the lasting operation to commence andthe first effect is to cause the jack 16 to be pulled rearwardly still further, settling the rear end of the shoe firmly against the flexible heel band 18, which thereupon closes around the upper and grips the counter portion thereof firmly against the last. Thereafter the wipers are caused, through the automatic forward movement of the rods 19 and the action of the curved slots 13 in the wiper carriers, to move forwardly and inwardly *over the heel end of the shoe bottom to wipe the upper material over and down upon the insole 14. Having made one overwiping movement, the wipers thereafter retreat and are immediately once more automatically advanced to produce a repeated overwiping movement. At the end of the second overwiping` movement and while the upper is still held pressed down on the heel end of the insole by the wipers 7, the eight tack-inserting devices associated wlth each wiper are operated by mechanism common to them all to drive tacks through the apertures 23 in the wipers and secure the heel end of the upper tothe insole in lasting position.

As the wipers 7 move forwardly and in wardly as above described, the side lasting plates 57 are brought into engagement with the upper directly beneath the welt and move forwardly and inwardly also, each swinging about its point of contact with the work as an axis. The initial position of the side lasting plates 57 is indicated in Fig. 1 and it will be apparent that the pointv of contact of: each plate is near the forward end of the plate. The swinging movement above described takes place about this point and is permitted by the pivotal mounting of the plate 57 upon the pivot 55. The inward movement of the plates 57 serves to urge the upper further inwardly over the last bottom throughout a portion of the upper extending approximate'- ly half way along the shank of the shoe from the heel breast line and thisv supplementary lasting operation occurs in a progressive manner as the line of contact between the plates and the welt crease shifts rearwardly with the inward movement of the wipers. As the side lasting plates 57 initially engage the upper at their forward ends before the wipers 7 begin to move inwardly, the side lasting effect of the plates 57 will begin somewhat before the lasting of the heel end by the wipers 7 commences. Consequently, the side lasting edeet produced by the plates 57 is likely to be more eective than it would if the heel-seat portion of the upper had been previously secured. The novel sequence of steps taking place in the manner above outlined tends to improve the operation of the heel-seat lasting wipers 7 which, as Awill be understood from the foregoing description, begins after the side lasting operation of the plates 57 has actually become eective to urge the upper inwardly over the edge of the insole. Under these circumstances the line of the inseam in the shank of the shoe, particularly toward the ends of the inseam, is brought well over the shoe bottom by -the plates 57 before the lasted over margin of the upper about the heel-,seat is lsecured, in lasted position and, consequently, the tendency of the rear `ends of the inseam to spread apart toward the edges of the insole is substantially obviated.

It will be understood that the tack-inserting operation above described takes place at the conclusion 'of the supplementary lasting operations .of the wipers 7 and the plates and that this includes, not only the operation of the tack-inserting devices 25 associated with the wipers 7, but also the driving ofl tacks from the nozzles 8l which are associated 4withthe side lasting plates 57. The tack nozzles 8l, during the inward movement of the side lasting plates 57, are lowered gradually until they come to rest upon the overlasted margin of the upper at the conclusion of the lasting movements of the plates.- They are operated in this position to drive tacks into the margin of the upper Within or beyond the inner edges of the plates 57 and close to the heel breast-line, the driven tacks occupying positions such for example as those indicated at X in Fig. l. lt will be understood that at the time the tacks are driven the margin of the upper in the regions through which the tacks pass will have been urged inwardly over tne insole from the position Vindicatedin Fig. l. The tacks inserted by the tack-inserting devices will be driven through the upper, the counter and lining of the shoe, into the insole but not through any portion of the welt 86.v

Just before the tack-inserting operation is eected, and while the wipers 7 and side lasting plates 57 are completing their inward movement, the pins 69 carried by the links 67 f are arrested by coming into contact with the inner ends of the short slots 71 in the plate 3 and the 'final portion of the inward movement of the wipers'causes the arms 65 to swing inwardly about their pivots so that the welt butting knives 68 act to trim 0E or butt the ends of the welt 86 which lie upon the plates 57. It will be noted that the side lasting plates 57 act as anvils or shear members in oooperationwith the butting knives and that each of them swings as the inseam vis forced inwardly so that it occupies always the proper relation to the welt in whatever position the latter may occupy when its inward movement is arrested by the tightening of the upper about the last. n

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: Y

1. The method` of making welted shoes,

' which consists in urging inwardly over the ,last bottom intermediate portions of the upper, to which the welt has been sewed, in

,locations near the heel breast line, holding said intermediate'portions in such position, and urging the heel end portion of the upper into conformity to the heel end of the last, and securing it in such position while said intermediate portions are so held.

2. The method of lasting welted shoes,

Vover the last bottom, holding said portions against recession, and then overwiping and securingthe heel end portion of the upper to form the'heel-seat of the shoe.

8. The method of lasting welted shoes, which consists in overwiping the margin of the upper along both sides of the shank while the heel end portion of the upper is substantially unsecured about the heel-seat, holding said overwiped margin in position, then overwiping said heel end portions of the upper, and finally securing all of said overwiped portions substantially simultaneously to the sole.

4. rllhe method of lasting welted shoes, which consists in overwiping the margins of a welted upper in the shank progressively back toward the heel breast line and holding the overwiped margin against recession as the operation progresses, then overwiping the heel-seat portion of the upper, and finally tacking all of said overwiped portions substantially simultaneously.

5. The method of making welted shoes, which consists in forcing the ends ofthe inseam inwardly over the shoe bottom while the margin of thev upper about the heelseat remains substantially unsecured, and then, while holding said ends in such position, overwiping and securing in place said heel-seat margin of the upper.

6. The method of making welted shoes, which consists inlasting the forepart of the shoe, sewing the welt about the shank and forepart while the heel-seat remains unlasted, then overwiping the margin of the upper in the shank in advance of `the heel breast line, and finally lasting the heel-seat.

7. The method of making welted shoes, which consists in lasting the forepart of the shoe, sewing the weltabout the orepart and along the sides of the shank while the heel-seat remains unlasted, then forcing inwardlv over the shoevbottom the ends oi' the inseam, and while holding them in such position, lasting the heel-seat.

8. The method oi making welted shoes, which consists in lasting the upper about the forepart of the shoe, inseaming the shoe while the heel-seat remains unlasted, and then performing a lasting operation on that portion of the upper extending rearwardly from the shank.

9. The method of making welted shoes, which consists in lasting the upper about the forepart of the shoe, inseaming the shoe while the heel-seat remains unlasted, forcing inwardly over the shoe bottom the ends of the inseam, and simultaneously performing a lasting operation on the upper about the heel-seat portion of the shoe rearwardly from the shank thereof.

10. The method of making welted shoes, characterized by the steps of sewing the welt along the forepart and shank of the shoe While the heel-seat remains unlasted, forcof the welt, and then lasting the heel-seat inzl butting the welt while its ends are so 11. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising means for conforming the heel end portion of an upper to the last, means operating to overwipe the margin of the upper about the heel-seat, and wiping means for pressing against a portion of the upper extending forwardly of the heel breast line along the shank of the shoe, said means being automatically movable to urge said portion of the shoe inwardly over the last bottom before the conclusion of the heel-seat wiping operation.

12. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising heel-seat wipers movable to overwipe the margin of an upper about the heel-seat, supplementary wipers carried thereby and arranged with their effective edges in advance of the heel-seat wipers, thereby to engage 'the welt crease in the shank of the shoe and force inwardly the ends of the welt seam before the heel-seat lasting operation is completed.

13. A machine for operating on the heelV ends of shoes, comprising heel-seat wipers movable to overwipe the margin of the upper about the heel-seat, supplementary wipers associated therewith and operative in advance of the heel-seat wipers to engage the margin of the upper along the shank of the shoe and force inwardly the ends of the welt seam, and tacking devices operative to secure the overwiped margin of the upper about the heel-seat while the ends of the welt seam are held by the supplementary wipers.

14e. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising means for overwiping the heel-seat portion of the upper, members yieldingly connected to said wiping means and arranged, as the wiping means act, to engage the upper along the shank of the shoe in the welt crease and urge the margin thereof inwardly over the sole.

15. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising cooperating heelseat lasting wipers, side lasting wipers pivotally connected to the heel-seat wipers respectively and extending forwardly therefrom, and yielding means for maintaining the side lasting wipers in relatively convergent relation whereby they are caused to act in a rearwardly progressing manner upon the margin of the upper along the shank of the shoe prior to the completion of the heelseat .lasting operation.

16. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising movable heel-seat wipers, power-operated tacking devices assooiated therewith, and side wipers for overwiping the margin of the upper along the shank arranged to operate in advance of the I heel-seat wipers. ing inwardly over the last bottom the ends 17. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising` movable heel-seat wipers, means for supporting the welt in the shank of the shoe and for urging it inwardly over the last bottom, and means operated by the heel-seat wipers in their overwiping movement for butting the ends of the welt.

18. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers, means for supporting the welt in the shank of the shoe yand for forcing its ends inwardly over the shoe bottom, welt butting knives cooperating therewith and operatedin timed relation to the action of said heel-seat wipers, and tacking devices automatically operated to tack the margin of the upper insidethe inseam while the welt ends are held in their forced-in positions.

19. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, `comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers, welt-supporting plates act-- ing in advance of said wipers to force the ends Aof the welt inwardly over the shoe bottom, welt butting knives cooperating with,

said plates to butt the welt while so held, and a tacking device adjustable with respect to each of said plates for tacking the margin of the upper inside the inseam.

20. A` machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising movable heel-seat wipers, an elongated welt-supporting member. pivotally connected to each wiper, arranged to underlie the rear portion of the welt and to force the ends of the welt inwardly during the operation of the heel-seat wipers, swinging to maintain a position pai-,

allel to the welt seam in all positions thereof, and butting knives automatically operated when the ends of the welt have been so positioned.

1 21. A machine for operating on the heel ends -of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers, an anvil carried by each wiper to support the ends of the welt, and an automatically-operated` butting knife cooperating with each anvil to butt the welt when the heel-seat wipers reach a predetermined point in their movement.

.22. A machine foi` operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers movable inwardly over the last bottom, an anvil extending forwardly of the shoe from each wiper in position to underlie the welt, and butting knives cooperating with the anvils and actuated by the movement of the wipers to butt the welt.

23. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers movable inwardly over the last bottom, a side wiping plat/e extending forwardly of the shoe from each wiper in forwardly-converging relation, means for advancing said plates simultaneously in a yielding manner to force in the ends of the Welt seam, said plates swinging angularly to follow the direction of the inseam, and buttingv knives operated automatically at the conclusion of the side wiping operation.y

24. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers movable inwardly over the last bottom, side wipers for overwiping the margin of theupper along the shank of the shoe arranged to operate in advance of the heel-seat wipers, and an automatically-.operated tacking deviceassociated with `each side wiper. f i

25. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers movable inwardly over the last bottom, side wipers acting automatically to engage and force inwardly the inseamed margin of the upper in the shank in advance of the action of the heel-seat wipers, and a tacking device including a nozzle movable inwardly above the inseam to tack-driving position on the shoe bottom. f Y

26. A machine :for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising power-operated heel-seat wipers, side wipers acting automatically to engagefand force inwardly the in-l seamed margin of the upper in the shank in advance of the action of the heel-seat Wipers, and a tacking device including a nozzle located in advance of each side wiper and in a position initially above the welt, and means for lowering the nozzle into contact with the overwiped margin of the upper inside the welt seam when the side wipers have acted to Jforce the same inwardly.

27. A machine for operating on the heel ends of shoes, comprising poweroperated heel-seat Wipers, side wipers acting automatically to force inwardly the inseamed margin of the upper in the shank in advance of the action of the heel-seat wipers, a movable tacking nozzle associated with each side Wiper, and means for governing the position of the n ozzle'above the shoe bottom in accordance with the lateral position of the side Wipers. v

In testimony whereof I have name to this specification.

ARTHUR BATES.

signed my 

